Dmm Climbing

There's still plenty of new routes to be done on slate, especially for the more adventurous and those prepared to peer into the less accessible recesses of Dinorwig Quarry.
James Mchaffie has shown that to be the case a fair bit of late. His most recent addition is the big groove line, that was crying out to be climbed, just left of his own 2007 route, Serpent Vein (8b), in Australia East Braich.
The Endarkenment (E7 6c) gains the groove from a traverse in from The Dark Tower..., with a bold swing right to the arete. After the arete, big moves on slopers lead right to the corner just left of Serpent Vein, which is climbed until you can join that route to finish.
It wasn't all straight-forward, as James recounts: "I tried it with Lewis Perrin Williams one evening, but having had too many coffees, bottled it. Although it has got some bolts in it, courtesy of myself, Ignacio Mulero and Adam Wainright, it gives very exposed and intimidating climbing."
"After traversing out from The Dark Tower the moves were harder than expected and once I'd gained the groove and done the first few palm moves up it, I couldn't bring myself to swing right to the arete. Facing some tricky moves, I was convinced that a fall would grind the rope down a sharp bit of the arete so I backed off it. However, Lewis and I went and got ourselves the consolation prize of the short corner right of Dinorwic Unconquerable, a soft E6 6c we called Orphic, with fiddly and poor gear after a third height."
"A few days later I returned for the big new one, which links the stand-out groove features on the face via the main weaknesses. Using two ropes and careful ropework in case my coffee anxieties about the arete had a basis in truth, it gave an incredible 35 metre pitch. Definitely one of the most exposed on slate and although it's bolted, I think E7 6c would probably be a more realistic grade than a sport one, as from half-way there are some runouts."
"The name stems from a David Mitchell book called The Bone Clocks, I thought it described the era of demagoguery, anti-science and fake news we are going through well. Shout out to Emma and Lewis Perrin Williams for the belaying and Andy Scott for the beach party afterward."
📸 © Ray Wood
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Ryan Pasquill making an impressive onsight of Sunbane (E6 6b/c) Ailladie (Burren) during our recent trip to Ireland; followed of course by a traditional pint to finish.

Outdoor Retailer kicks-off today in Denver, Colorado, and on the booth for the first time we’ll be introducing our latest products and updates for 2020.
We think trad climbers are going to appreciate our Halfnuts (sizes 1–7). Using the same proven profile of DMM Wallnuts, these single wire lightweight nuts excel in shallow placements. We’ve added a Shadow HMS to our collection of carabiners and updated the bag range including the addition of a compact Flight, called the Short... Haul.
This year’s Outdoor Retailer show has a special significance for us as the company launches its plans to expand into the North America market.
Further details —> https://dmmclimbing.com/…/DMM-at-Outdoo r-Retailer-Summer-20…
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Going, going, gone. No more stepping off the top of the block on the second pitch of the popular Tremadog VS, Shadrach. The Shadrach pinnacle and boot flake below it had been identified as unstable. Following consultation, the BMC who own the crag, took the decision to have the blocks removed. Carwyn Ephraim and Aron Humphreys, working for Colin Jones Rock Engineering, can claim to have been the last people to stand on that pinnacle. The impact of the levered-off pinnacle removed the larger (approx 100 ton) perched block that formed the chimney on Shadrach's first pitch. The BMC request climbers to stay away from that area of Craig Bwlch y Moch (Meshach, Grim Wall and The Brothers) until further work has been carried out to remove loose rock and debris over the next few days. 📸 © Ray Wood

Footage of Angus Kille's onsight of Very Big Springs (E7 6b) at Ailladie, the Burren, Ireland. Angus commented: "It was hard to convince myself I was ready to onsight something of this grade, especially with an E6 already under my belt that day, but with the coming bad forecast and team mates to impress, I decided to treat this as a run of good form and ended up tying-in." Watch it to find out how Angus fared...

So, so close. That heartbreak moment when you're about to match the finishing hold on your project but you don't quite make it. James Mchaffie takes a big ride down the wall left of Tombola at Nesscliffe.
An hour-and-a-half later with a borrowed replacement helmet, Caff was back on it and took the fall again, but from a bit lower down.
The headwall above the two-thirds height break, where the critical cams and wire are placed, is sustained and reckoned by the crag 'caretaker'... Nick Dixon to be around 8c. Getting to the break is E6 6b.
🎥 Ray Wood
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Charming short film documenting Ben Moon’s return to Buoux, thirty years after his historic first ascent of Agincourt—Frances’s 1st 8c. You’ll have to watch it to find out how he gets on.
The footage alone of him climbing La Rose et le Vampire will get people returning to the crag. That move.
More: https://moonclimbing.com/…/agincourt-fi lm-30-year-annivers…/
... https://youtu.be/s8EujPDtKg4
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It's likely that anyone who follows climbing will be aware of the recent tragedy on Howse Peak, resulting in the loss of Jess Roskelley, David Lama and Hansjörg Auer. Jess was a member of DMM's Climbing Team, often attending clinics and climbing festivals for us in the USA, generously sharing his enthusiasm for adventure and climbing. Ben Bransby got to know Jess through working alongside him at events such as Red Rock Rendezvous and 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell. Below, Ben sh...ares his recollections of Jess from those times: — "I first met Jess in Alabama where I was attending Horseshoe Hell for DMM and Jess was along as a sponsored athlete. I arrived jet-lagged, tired and struggling to cope with the humidity and was slightly dreading meeting the hardcore alpine climber who might be expecting VIP treatment. Jess arrived into the airport terminal with trucker cap, tattoos, and a certain swagger but with a grin from ear to ear which hinted at the easy-going joker beneath." • "We spent a week together that first trip, assembling the stand, camping in the wood, manning the stand, climbing in the 24hr marathon event (sneaking off for burgers and milkshakes in town at one point) and partying afterward. We came from different sides of the climbing game – him more at home amongst the snow and high mountains - but Jess chatted about folk we knew in common and those we didn’t with great enthusiasm and passion. Our climbing overlapped the most in Patagonia and Jess insisted on repeatedly telling people how hardcore I was. I’m not sure if this was entirely due to his own humility or more because he enjoyed watching me squirm. He was instantly hatching plans for trips, to combine his skills on ice and snow with some hard rock." • "He had a real passion for climbing, especially in more remote places, as well as the history of the sport but he was in no way single-minded. We both had dogs and we'd spend hours sharing pictures of his English Bulldog and my fluffy ones. He had an almost child-like curiosity about the medieval history of the UK, asking me how close I lived to a castle, if I had ever been inside one and about kings, queens and knights. I felt slightly guilty for knowing significantly less than him..." • "Jess spent a lot of time talking about his family and plans for the future. He still lived close to his parents and sister and was obviously close to them but mostly he would talk about his wife Allison. He could hardly believe his good fortune that he was with someone so smart, funny and beautiful." — Our thoughts are with the families and friends of Jess Roskelley, David Lama and Hansjörg Auer at this sad time. A huge loss for the climbing community of three immensely talented and inspiring individuals. RIP.
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A well-deserved lie-down for Hannah Toward last Saturday at Malham. Main Overhang was 11 year-old Hannah's third 8a this year; following on from El Guardià in Spain and finally finishing-off Raindogs.
Hannah said: "I briefly got on the route earlier in the week after bringing a satisfying end to my battle with Raindogs. We had to head back home for a couple of days but I was keen to get on it again whilst the conditions were good."
"We drove up from Southampton Saturday morning and I topped it before lunch. I had put so much into the redpoint that I was knackered for the rest of the day. We slept in the car that night and drove back Sunday. Thanks to Tanya Meredith for the beta and encouragement."

We're in Chulilla this weekend—Plaza Baronia. Come and say hola if you're about.
Prueba nuestros productos de mano de los equipos de DMM y 5.10.
https://www.facebook.com/events/627923300 961978/

In stark contrast to his previous trip to Lundy Island, fortune smiled on James Mchaffie's recent visit. Making the most of an unusually settled spell of good weather he came away having added two new E7's and ticked-off his remaining 'Extreme Rock routes' on the island.
That only leaves five to-do from the list of 180 to complete his outstanding mission to climb every route in the book Extreme Rock. Read more —>
... https://dmmclimbing.com/…/Controlled-Bu rning-on-Lundy-Island
📸 James McHaffie on the first ascent of Spirit Guide (E7 6c), Flying Buttress Area, Lundy Island. © Ray Wood
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James Mchaffie on the first ascent of The Invisible Girl last weekend. He describes the crux shown here, as: "A high step groove with a bit of a shimmy and soft 8a."
The route is at the back of Mordor in the Dinorwig Quarry, starting to the right of Greta Thunberg and joining Greta for the finish.
An appropriate day (#fridaysforfuture) to post a shot of a route with this name when pupils worldwide are taking the day off school, inspired by Swedish teenager Greta Thunberg ["th...e invisible girl"], to protest against climate change.
📸: © Ray Wood
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Congratulations to Finn Hayward on his first 8b+; a few days before turning 15 years-old. He made quick work of Kalea Borroka on El Pati, Siurana, taking only four sessions. The icing on the cake was when David Graham and Alizé Dufraisse congratulated him afterward. His previous hardest redpoint was an ascent of Stolen (8b) at Kilnsey last year.
Thanks to Clem De Priester - photographe for the photo.

Tickets are on sale from today for the Arc'teryx Big Mountain Weekend in the Lake District. But be quick because they sell-out fast.
Over the bank holiday weekend of May 4/5th a wide range of clinics will be taking place including, new for this year, the DMM Women’s Intro to Trad sessions on Saturday.
Every clinic participant will also receive a free BBQ ticket for the Sat evening. Based at the Sticklebarn in Langdale it makes for a memorable social weekend of climbing.
... Book here: http://www.arcteryxlakelandrevival.com/bi g-mountain-week…/…/
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The youngsters go from strength to strength. Well done to 11-year-old Hannah Toward redpointing El Guardià; her first 8a.
This Margalef route had been at the back of her mind since first getting on it last October. Back then, she latched the last hard move before peeling off, but in her excitement when she got back down, she slipped over and hurt her arm, stopping any more attempts.
As this trip was booked quite late she hadn't trained much endurance so wasn't sure whether sh...e’d have enough in the tank. But there were no slip-ups this time. After spending a couple of days working the route and doing links, she managed it on her first redpoint attempt.
Malham regulars may have spotted her trying hard on Raindogs (8a). An ongoing obsession for her since she first got on it 18 months ago and quickly touched the chains. Hannah says: “I think not getting it then was the best thing for my climbing as it inspired me to train harder and become a more rounded climber.”
Hannah started out climbing indoors but counts herself really lucky that Tim Miller who runs the local wall and other friends from the Southampton Climbing Club, took her climbing outside almost from the start.
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We are looking for a graphic designer to work in our marketing department. If you're a team player with creative flair, have a broad skill set including being an efficient and knowledgeable user of Adobe Creative Suite, then we'd like to hear from you. Based in Llanberis, the successful applicant will preferably have experience of rock climbing or working at height.
Closing date: Friday 22nd February
Details —> https://dmmclimbing.com/About/Careers

Set aside 30 mins to watch Eadan Cunningham's travelogue/bouldering film 'Big Blocing in Madagascar - Tsaranoro Bouldering'. Expect some good looking highballs and lemur action.
https://youtu.be/Czii-5VKKQQ
Read his brother's account of the first ascent of Blood Moon (8a+, 700 metres) on the same trip —> https://dmmclimbing.com/…/Blood-Moon-Ma dagascar-Big-Wall-Fi…

It was the 2019 Welsh Climbing Championships yesterday at the Beacon Climbing Centre just down the road from us. Great routes and huge effort from everyone involved. Plenty of try-hard faces and a few tears.
Thanks to the BMC for organising the event, the Beacon Climbing Centre for hosting it—effectively having to close their lead walls for three days while setting took place, the team of setters led by Yann Genoux, and Emma Twyford and James Mchaffie for handing out our prizes.
But a special thanks has to go to the numerous volunteer judges and belayers who gave up their Saturday and without whose goodwill this event wouldn’t have happened.