Morocco Rock

Genghis Khan, E3 5c, 5a 70m *** takes the obvious black chimney and roof crack, followed by the impressive flying arete up to its right, one of the last unclimbed lines on the east face of Ksar Rock. The arete turned out to be much more amenable that it looked..airy but with surprisingly plenty of gear! All ignored by the sleepy locals!

Guidebook photographer Don Sargeant on the first ascent of an HVS at White Finger Wall, the steep side wall of the Red Hot Poker slab, now a great low-mid grade venue just a minute or two from the car!

Roofs, Corners, Chimney Cracks..Morocco Rock has it all..just 2 of the recent new additions.. Spacewalk in Taskra Gorge, at a surprising HVS 5a, and King of Ksar, E2 5c, a future classic on the East Walls at Anammer.. Stay tuned for photos to follow of Ghenghis Khan, E3!

Always more new crags to visit on the north side of the Anti-Atlas - White Finger Wall near Alma produced a VD, S, four VS's, two HVS's and 3 E1's, all one to two stars..and 50m high packed pitches..so far..

Stunning vistas... courtesy of Don Sargeant

And the routes just keep going up..thanks again to the guidebook photographer Don Sargeant for these inspiring shots of recent action in the anti-atlas - Blade Runner, E3, Walking Man E2, Exhausted Orchestra, E2 and Banana Smile, E1.

Swarming flies..lounging lizards...slippery snakes...storks and shrike...wild boar...what's not to like out in Morocco? Photos Don Sargeant.

The landscapes in the Anti-Atlas just take your breath away...thanks again Don Sargeant for the inspiring shots..just makes you want to go there..!

Loads more action this Autumn with big lines getting repeats and confirmation of the quality of routes to be found at crags like Dinosaur Wall, Icebox Canyon and Taskra Bastion - thanks to Andy Perkins mountain guide for the great shots!

The Anammer guest house is really worth checking out when climbing on the north side - It's the best value for money accommodation and suits those on a tighter budget - and it is in the heart of one of the best climbing areas in the Anti-Atlas to boot! Fatima is a warm and welcoming host and goes out of her way to please - still quite small and basic with no wifi (Joy??) but they are working hard to improve things all the time.

Looks like the sunny rock season is in full swing again! Classic routes being repeated and lots of new routes still going up! So much rock...so many adventures.. And lots of happy climbers..! Thanks again for the inspiring photos Don Sargeant...

A comprehensive rack for those big pitches, where the quartzite accepts a large variety of pieces. The very big gadgets are only really carried if an off-width is envisaged!

This funky futuristic crag came under the scrutinous eye of the pioneers last spring. Several great routes now exist and scope for a few more. An 'Interesting' drive to get there, but only a few minutes walk-in. Happy Days.

Some Moroccan vistas..courtesy of Don Sargeant.

The new Coffee Barr Cliff in the Samazar and Rob Andrews getting a 'cheeky' rest on Expresso Corner E5 6a,5c,5b*** Rumour has it that it matches the quality of the original Tower 3 route Golden Compass, E1, up at the popular White Dome - but unfortunately it is about 4 grades harder! Though many who have failed to climb the second pitch of Golden Compass (2010) may disagree! One thing that can be agreed upon however - the quality of rock on both of these major and original lines is unsurpassable. With Morocco Rock and its supplement you get all these exciting new cliffs - meaning your guidebook is never out of date! :-)

A few new routes from Don Sargeant and Scott Titt on their recent trip to Morocco - still loads of scope for new routing at all levels!

Some great animal pics from intrepid photographer Don Sargeant.. whilst on his recent trip to Morocco with Scott Titt Titt..more on the climbing to follow...

We've had many enquiries about more accommodation near to all the climbing on the "North Side" in Morocco Rock, especially as it is quite far to travel from places like Tafraoute, and the Kasbah Tizourgane gets very full at times, and is also rather expensive. Good News! Please try Mahfoud Abdoun at the Ksar Rock Guesthouse, in Anammer. They are very friendly and offer basic accommodation at a reasonable price. Limited at present but expanding all the time. They only get inte...rnet on Thursdays at present, so expect delays when emailing, though he is also on messenger so you can fb him. His wife Fatima speaks some English. Not the easiest to organise but it is in the heart of all the best climbing areas so well worth it! Here Scott Tit, the BMC president, soaks up the views of the majestic Lower Eagle Crag, over a cup of tea with the friendly couple who run the place. All photos - Don Sargeant.
See More

All types of climbing styles to be had here. Sometimes all on one multi-pitch climb and even sometimes, all on one long single pitch mega-route!

The Kasbah Tizourgane will take cash sterling but they cannot accept any marked notes - the banks won't take them - so please check your cash notes before taking to Morocco. Spot the Dirhams!

Morocco rock is the guide which can someone use it to have a fantastic days of climbing Jebal Elkest in Tafraout.

MOMTAZ IDGNDF MOROCCO DIMA TIZGZAWIN AFOLKI D

Morocco rock is the guide which can someone use it to have a fantastic days of climbing Jebal Elkest in Tafraout.

MOMTAZ IDGNDF MOROCCO DIMA TIZGZAWIN AFOLKI D